Porto Before the Camino – How to Spend a Day (or Two)
The Camino Português starts at the Sé Cathedral in Porto – which means that Porto is where your Camino begins, whether or not you count it as part of the walk. Most pilgrims arrive, sleep, collect their Credencial from the cathedral the next morning, and leave. This is understandable and also a small shame, because Porto is one of the most alive and characterful cities in Europe, and it deserves more than a night’s sleep before you lace up your trail runners. Here’s how to spend a day in Porto before the Camino.
The Morning: Ribeira and the Sé
Start early, before the tourist coaches arrive. Walk down to the Ribeira – the old riverside quarter, a UNESCO World Heritage site of narrow medieval lanes, azulejo-tiled facades, and terraces overlooking the Douro. In the early morning it’s quiet enough to feel like the city rather than a postcard of it. Get a galão and a pastel de nata at any of the small cafes on the waterfront and sit with it.
From Ribeira, walk up to the Sé Cathedral – standing at the Sé knowing you’ll leave from this exact spot tomorrow morning is a particular feeling. The cathedral itself is worth spending time in – it’s one of the oldest buildings in Porto, parts of it dating to the 12th century, and the cloister has some of the finest azulejo tile work in the country. Be sure to collect your Credencial del Peregrino (pilgrim passport) from the pilgrim reception desk, if you haven’t already gotten one.
The Afternoon: Livraria Lello and the Bolhão Market
Livraria Lello is Porto’s famous bookshop. With a neo-Gothic facade and sweeping interior staircase, it’s the kind of place that looks like it came straight out of a fantasy novel. It requires a ticket (around €8, redeemable against a book purchase) and gets crowded by midday, so go early afternoon if you can. Worth it even if you don’t buy anything.
Recently restored and genuinely beautiful, the Mercado do Bolhão is Porto’s historic covered market. Here you’ll find stalls of fresh produce, local cheese, bacalhau, flowers, and the rich atmosphere of a place that has been feeding a city for over a century. If you want to assemble a picnic for your first walking day, this is where to do it.
For lunch, the Majestic Café on Rua de Santa Catarina is the grand old dame of Porto’s cafe culture – belle époque interiors, good food, slightly touristy but worth it once. Alternatively, any tasca in the Bonfim neighbourhood will feed you better for a third of the price.
The Evening: The Douro and the Francesinha Question
Walk across the Dom Luís I bridge to Vila Nova de Gaia as the light goes golden over the Douro. The view back toward Porto from the upper deck of the bridge is one of those city views that genuinely earns the word spectacular. The port wine lodges are all down here – Sandeman, Graham’s, Taylor’s – if a port tasting is your kind of thing before a fortnight of walking. If not, the view from the Gaia side is free.
And then the million euro question – should I try a francesinha? Everyone says you must, it is Porto’s signature dish – layers of cured meat and sausage between bread, blanketed in melted cheese and a beer-and-tomato sauce, usually with chips on the side. It is enormous, rich, roughly a bajillion calories and heartburn on a plate – but it’s also the night before you start walking 25km a day. I’ll leave that ponderous decision to you.
What I do recommend for the pre-Camino evening snack: a bacalhau croquette from a street vendor in the old town as the sun goes down, a glass of vinho verde somewhere you can sit outside, and an early night. You’ve got a long road ahead.
Practical Notes for a day in Porto Before the Camino
- Getting to Porto: Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport is well-connected from most European cities. The Metro (Line E, violet) runs directly from the airport to central Porto in about 35 minutes for around €2.60.
- Where to stay: The Baixa and Ribeira neighbourhoods put you closest to the Sé and the old town. There are several pilgrim-friendly hostels in these areas – good places to meet fellow pilgrims the night before you start. Book ahead in peak season at Hostelworld.com.
- Collecting your Credencial: The pilgrim reception desk at the Sé Cathedral opens from 9am. Arrive early in peak season as queues form.
- Last-minute gear: There’s a Decathlon in Porto (Arrábida Shopping centre, reachable by metro) if you’ve forgotten anything essential. Far cheaper than buying gear on the trail.
- Travel insurance: If you haven’t sorted this before arrival, do it now before you start walking. I recommend World Nomads – it is straightforward to set up online, covers walking and hiking activities and can be purchased even after you’ve already left home.
When to Leave on Day One
Stage 1 of the Camino Português from Porto to Vila do Conde is 27km – it’s a tough opener on fresh legs, so leave by 7.30–8am at the latest. The first few kilometres out of Porto pass through suburban and light industrial areas, that are best covered in the cool of the morning before the city fully wakes up. By the time the route opens into the countryside beyond Matosinhos you’ll have found your rhythm.
Bom Caminho! 🌟
